Mexico Trip
Monday, May 29th, 2006
Site 1 was Aktun Ho – the Puma Cave. We jumped in amongst snorkelers and holiday makers who were somewhat surprised to see people in drysuits and doubles.
First dive was upstream in to a very pretty cavern and cave – with huge rooms with tunnels you could have driven a car through. Thousands of pencil thin stalactites like straws came down from the roof, it was awe inspiring.
Second dive we went downstream to Little Brother. Here the tunnel twisted up and down dramatically, narrowed down so that the flow was noticeable for the first time this week. Thicker columns punctuated the cave so frequently in parts that it appeared like a cage.
We negotiated a T in the mainline, each dropping a cookie to mark the exit. A second T was beyond our certification so we would have to turn the dive at this point, but as it was I had problems with his ears so we thumbed it.
We set up kit on a second set of tanks and set off for another site – Chaac Mool.
Diving in Chac Mool is all about Haloclines where sea water and fresh water combine but form separate layers due to their relative densities. Here there are actually two, about 2.5 meters apart vertically. We swam along between the two separate levels, like swimming in a river – ripples below and above.
Chris pointed out a blind cave fish, white, sightless and seemingly alone.

Our last day was to be something special. Nohoch na Chich which translates as the Giant Bird House. It was a trek to the site in 40 degree heat with a twinset on your back clambering over rocks. Our first dive would be on Parker’s line (laid by Parker Turner, founder of the WKPP) we would then, after about 1000 feet turn left at a T on to Charlie’s line until we hit turn pressure.
This cave has to be seen to be believed – thousand upon thousand of the most delicate speliothems, white formations and huge rooms that go way beyond the reach of our lights. Tables like high altars, huge columns formed when the caves were dry long before the Mayan civilisation which celebrated the water within the cenotes as giving of life.

This dive lasts 56 minutes and some tetras which had followed us in to the cave stuck with us throughout – Chris joked that he hoped that they did their valve drills and were carrying safety spools.
We surfaced with huge post dive grins, and Chris said “Did you like it? Aw…you’ll hate the next dive then!” We recalculated thirds and dropped back down to the mainline this time. We came to Heavens Gate – two vast white columns, flanked by row upon row of bright white stalactites and finer columns. After the gate we went through Dreamland, where the decorations got even more delicate and numerous. Sure made a change after rooms called ‘The Wizard’s Den’ and ‘The Temple of Doom’ all week!
On and on we went, round every corner there was something new to marvel at. Eventually we came to Jaws – another aptly named formation

Finally, over 2000 feet in to the cave it was finally, sadly, time to turn. The nicest thing about cave diving though is you get to see it all again on the way out. Total run time this dive was 76 minutes.
Second site was Dos Ojos system although we accessed from Dos Palmas and went upstream toward Ojos as that site is usually very busy with snorklers. Fraser had found the two long swims we had that morning, which totalled over a mile, hard work and his knee hurt enough to say that he would sit out the dives – especially as there would be some flow this time.
The formations here were as numerous but this time were golden instead of white – minerals assist in the colouration. The upstream tunnel was tight and we were swimming against the flow which was harder than normal. Every kick in the repertoire was needed to get through without brushing against the fragile formations – they only form in dry caves so will never come back if broken by a careless kick.
Working our way upstream took it’s toll on our gas so all too soon it was time to turn – the journey back took half as long, like a drift dive but with more reason to stay in control!
We didn’t come up when we reached the reel but recalculated thirds underwater and agreed a 25 minute maximum swim downstream – this time with the flow so we would be working against it on our way back and had to take account of this in gas planning.
The formations here were even more weird and wonderful – vast ripples in the calcite floor where thousands of years ago wind had whistled through the passages before they became submerged. Flat formations like giant hands which had formed by deposits made on a mud or silt floor – which had then been washed away leaving the hard deposits hanging as if defying gravity.






